Today I’m joined by Makeup artist Chrys Spaulding-Chapman. I’ve been working with Chrys recently on my BRANDING DAYS and on a few shoots too.
Should you do your own make-up?
If I had a nickel for every time I’ve heard hiring a makeup artist is just an extra expense that I don’t need… well, I would have a stack of currency that I can’t really use, but my point is that I hear it all the time.
I get it. You’ve got a bag of makeup, right? Sure you might not have updated it for a while and you’re not entirely sure you’re doing it right, but it’s there and it works pretty well most days, so why do you need a makeup artist, even if it is a special occasion?
I mean how many years have you been doing your makeup anyway? What’s one more day?
Don’t tell the rest of the makeup artists, but the truth is, you don’t NEED one.
I want to be really honest with you. I hate the way the beauty industry preys on our insecurities. HATE. It’s a strong word, but in this instance it is 100% the word I mean to use. It’s not even as simple as questionning, “Am I pretty enough?”
It’s turned into watching endless videos on YouTube and the Gram wondering if you should be contouring, colour correcting, cut-creasing; it’s looking at images of women of all ages who have been filtered, fillered and face-lifted claiming to have just woken up like this; it’s the relentless product pushing, free gift with purchase (usually resulting in the accumulation of a multitude of stuff you just don’t need); it’s soul-selling sales tactics that sees you foot the bill for subpar value.
You get it. Spend any amount of time in a beauty hall, skimming your social feeds or watching an innocent episode of anything on the tele and BAM. They hit you. And I hate it.
So I’m not here to prey on your fears. I’m here to say you can absolutely do your own makeup on an important day like a branding photoshoot, family wedding or even your own wedding.
But it might be worth a product and technique review beforehand. If for no other reason, you’ll feel more confident and self assured that you are using the right products and techniques to accentuate your best features.
There are a few really important items to get right to set yourself up for a beautiful, photo-ready result.
It’s all about the Base
When is the last time you thought about your foundation? Colour? Finish? Coverage? How long have you had your current foundation? When was the last time you were colour matched?
For me there is no element in makeup artistry that is more important or harder to get right than beautiful skin.
Simple things, like don’t put a matte, full coverage foundation on an unprepped, dry or mature skin unless you want the texture to show up in your images.
How much hydration do you need to get the glow, but not look sweaty or greasy in your photos? Applying your foundation with a brush may save you getting makeup on your hands, and subsequently smudging it around your home, your clothes, your steering wheel, your children (it’s a daily struggle in my house), but you’ll likely end up with visible brush strokes.
Take the time and make the investment in a great foundation.
For photoshoots, I would recommend steering clear of foundation containing an SPF. Lots of foundations are created with SPF as a bit of bonus, but caveat emptor. I could blog for days on the differences in cosmetic sun protections and why relying on SPF in your makeup is just not adequate, but for the purposes of photoshoots, SPF is actually a big no no.
The filter that reflects the sunlight and prevents some of those harmful UVB rays from reaching your epidermis, will also reflect your photographer’s flash — bouncing light off your face like a high speed ping pong ball off Will Bayley’s paddle.
And if you already know about the SPF factor in cautionary foundation tales, did you also know that some foundations (especially your all day wearing, full coverage, best seller varieties) are made with a significant amount of powder, which can also give you that white-washed effect. It may look great IRL, but if you’re not sure how it’ll photograph, I would always recommend doing a little independent research. (Don’t just ask the salesperson. They get paid to sell first and foremost.)
The Eyes Have It
The eyes are the most requested features I’m asked to accentuate, and for good reason. You’ve heard it before: the eyes are the window to the soul; she has really trusting eyes; etc, etc. But it’s also the feature that causes my clients the biggest bother, because they’re just not sure how to do their own. That’s fair enough. It’s not something we’re taught at school, but as a makeup artist, I can tell you by looking at you what kind of looks will flatter you because I know the different shapes of eyes (almond, hooded, lidless… the list goes on) and how to work my colour wheel to really make your eyes pop.
In general, if you’re in doubt I suggest subtle liner (preferably tightlined), curled lashes with a bit of mascara and a soft application of your face bronzer is a fairly fool proof way to ensure your eyes are the leading act and your makeup plays backup.
And in case you need reminding, your mascara needs to be replaced every 6 weeks. And before you roll your eyes at me, just remind yourself where you’re putting that product. Do you really want to chance bacterial growth?
You Are Not Kimmie K…
To my mind the Kardashians have a lot to answer for, and top of the list is the absolute obsessions with contouring.
This is a topic that’s a makeup artist’s pandora’s box, so rather give you a step by step (because, God knows the world does NOT need another “Contouring How To” guide), what’s important to remember is that contouring, like all makeup, is there to accentuate. Unless you’re playing an Avatar, Hobbit or mythical creature in a film, you don’t need to erase your face and put a new one on.
Whether you’re applying a touch of bronzer (aka – contouring), dabbing on a bit of cream blusher or finishing your complexion with a sweep of highlight to add a youthful glow, the point is to feel pretty, not to make you feel overwhelmed with the process.
As with foundation, texture is really important so know your skin type can really help choose the right product for you. Also, to consider are the conditions of the day — if it’s a wedding in July, powder products will likely give you better lasting effect than a cream. Where as an outdoor winter shoot, with whipping winds and drying cold air, might make a powder cling to skin and accentuate fine lines or preexisting dryness.
But I never wear lipstick
Sorry, lovely. If you’re planning to be snapped by the camera, a little lip is basically non-negotiable. Lack of lip and cheek colour are the mostly likely things to make you look washed out in a photo. So even if you have fear of colour, this is the time to embrace it.
This doesn’t mean you need to go full on Dita Von Tesse and rock a red lip (but seriously, why not give it go ahead of time? There really is a red for everyone and you might just like it).
A little colour is really important. It will breathe life into your colouring and add definition to the lip, which gives people looking at your photos another point of emphasis to focus on.
There will be those of you reading this dismissing me at this point.
“My lips are so thin I don’t want to draw attention to them.”
“I hate the shape of my lips.”
“My lips are too big. If I put colour on them I’ll be all lips and no face.”
“I’ve got mature skin and lipstick always bleeds.”
I get it. I get it all.
But you know what it’s like, don’t you? The more you try to cover up or ignore the thing you’re insecure about, the more it sticks out like a sore thumb. (True in life, not just makeup… going a bit deep aren’t we?!).
If you’re nervous, I would try a nudey-pink lip liner that suits your lip tone (Pillow Talk by Charlotte Tilbury is a great starting place) and apply all over the lip. This way you get definition that won’t smudge or run into fine lines around the lip. Pop a little lip balm over the top so it doesn’t look dry in photos. Voila.
Also, if you’re thinking about a bold colour for a photoshoot, I would recommend a colour that isn’t married to a season. Posting a pic of you with a Carnival-pop Red/ Orange in December or an Autumnal Merlot tone in August might not jive with your message. Think classic colours, and if a statement colour makes you nervous, wear the colour for a week ahead of time. Keep catching yourself in mirrors and snapping selfies. If you’re still uncomfortable with the colour, then it’s not right for you. And that’s ok. But usually I find that by pushing the envelope a bit you get used to seeing yourself differently and you can wear the colour with confidence instead of the colour wearing you.
Oh, and please, please, please… leave the pearlised finish or lipsticks with glitter at home for a photo-ready day. Pearlised finishes in photos instantly age the lip and can make your photos look dated in an instant.
And Breathe
Most importantly, remember makeup is fun.
And if it doesn’t feel fun, call the pro’s. Whether you want to have a completely unbiased makeup bag review and a lesson or the reassurance of having the professional service on the big day, we are here to help.
In the same way that I don’t try to file my own taxes and am happy to defer to an expert, because the thought of remembering every rule and still getting wrong is just more than I can bear, don’t feel guilt if you need a little bit help. I feel better knowing my accountant has my back covered.
Would you feel better knowing that I’ve got your face covered, so to speak?
Chrys
You can find out more about Chrys…
Whats your favourite quote: “What makes you unique, makes you beautiful.” Laura Mercier
One thing on your bucket list: Wine tasting in France, Italy and Oz/ New Zealand and writing (completing) my first screenplay.
One thing that makes me happy: Singing along to film Musicals (extra points for Les Mis, Into the Woods and Pitch Perfect)
Favourite drink: black coffee and Champagne (not together)
Favourite Place: with Children – Hard Rock Tenerife; Without Children – Florence
